Text: Jiří Král Photo: Ilja Hubálek
Looking to buy a suit and already certain about the colour? Then the harder part lies ahead - choosing the cut. This is something not to be underestimated. Just think back to dance-class lessons: ill-fitting suits worn by your peers, looking rather like black nightshirts, were on show at every turn.
A good suit always highlights its wearer's strengths and conceals his weaknesses. Yes, it sounds obvious, but those very weaknesses are often where things come unstuck. Men with a bit of a belly, for example, to whom tight-fitting suits are decidedly unflattering, are often reluctant to acknowledge the fact.
Another problem is that off-the-peg sizes do not suit everyone. If you want a suit cut precisely to your figure, you should consider a Made to Measure service, which will take your proportions into account.
British, Italian and American styles
Two cuts currently dominate menswear: British and Italian. In terms of formality the two styles are equal; which one you slip into depends rather on your physique and personal taste.
Last century, suits in the American cut were also popular. They are characterised by a lower waist, a looser fit and a jacket with unpadded shoulders. Although this style is now rarely seen, it still suits some men of a heavier build. Former US president Donald Trump, for instance, is a fan.
The British style - a conservative safe bet
A suit in the British cut looks excellent on anyone, regardless of physical proportions. The roomier cut disguises any imperfections beautifully, while accentuating the figure in just the right places.
What does a British-cut suit look like?
• The jacket is cut relatively close to the body, yet still allows ample room. It has slightly padded shoulders.
• The buttons on the jacket sit higher than on the Italian cut.
• The side pockets on the jacket have flaps.
• The trousers have a higher waist, tapered hips and most often two pleats.
Double-breasted jackets, whose popularity has risen markedly in recent years, are also part of the British style. They have four to six buttons and peaked lapels, which visually broaden the wearer at the shoulders.
Some double-breasted jackets also give the impression of a broader waist. This cut is popular with slimmer men who wish to appear more substantial. It does not, however, apply to every cut. Other double-breasted jackets can, on the contrary, make the figure appear slimmer and look superb even on men of a fuller build.
The Italian style - modern, slender elegance
Slimmed-down Italian suits began to appear in the 1970s. A suit in the Italian cut hugs the body stylishly, the trousers and sleeves are narrower and the shoulders are padded. The Italian cut is most flattering on slim, tall and self-confident men who wish to emphasise their figure to the full while still looking elegant.
What does an Italian-cut suit look like?
• The jacket is shorter with padded shoulders.
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