Text: Lucie Krůčková Photo: Ilja Hubálek
At 34 she is head designer at Blažek, a leading Czech manufacturer of menswear. She was born in Lednice in southern Moravia, where her family lived in an apartment in the chateau. She studied at the Academy of Arts, Architecture and Design in Prague, in the Fashion Design studio under the guidance of Josef Ťapťuch. As part of her studies she undertook an internship in Milan at the Politecnico di Milano, which shaped her professionally. After graduating she briefly pursued her own work. She then worked in visual merchandising for a multinational retail chain. Since 2011 she has been with Blažek. She loves freedom, movement and travel. She cycles to work every day because it is much faster and freer than public transport or the car. She loves the mountains in every season. In summer she enjoys high-altitude hiking; in winter she skis.
You are the chief designer of the Blažek brand; you create fashion for Czech men. How, in your view, is the Czech man’s relationship with fashion developing?
I think the situation has changed a great deal recently. Social media have played a part in that, and as a result the younger generation take more care of themselves. I am pleased that Czech men are interested in fashion, as shown by the number of successful magazines devoted exclusively to menswear. They also see it as a means of communication. Through a sophisticated choice of outfit they express their views and are not afraid to show emotion. There are still situations, however, in which it is clear that they are at a loss. For instance, right now in the summer, when they do not quite know what to pair with what so that they still look presentable and yet do not “get cooked”.
Still, the typical Blažek customer is fairly knowledgeable about fashion trends and definitely insists on quality and good craftsmanship. He expects a new idea every season, a different palette, some — not too shocking — surprise. He does not go to the shop merely out of need, but also for pleasure.
What makes the Blažek brand so appealing to Czech men, in your view?
Blažek is attainable luxury. It offers the ideal combination of top-quality fabrics, well-fitting cuts and models with innovative ideas for every summer and winter season. You will not find that at such an attractive price anywhere else. I only wish I could find the equivalent of Blažek in womenswear.
Did you always want to create menswear? And what were the steps that led you to become head designer at Blažek?
Menswear was not my goal; it actually happened by chance. After graduating I spent a while working on my own projects. But I felt a certain helplessness — that as an individual it would take me far too long to establish myself. I came across a Blažek advertisement for a knitwear designer, which was not my field at all. But I think Blažek and I clicked, both personally and professionally. Since then I have come a long way, learned an enormous amount, and in 2016 I became the brand’s chief designer.
Today I see far deeper meaning in menswear. It is more considered than womenswear — timeless in the most expensive pieces such as suits, and bolder in the items that wear out the quickest, typically shirts. At the same time, designing menswear is more complex. A man buys a given piece for a longer period than just a single season. You need to combine timelessness, a certain degree of innovation, and a sense of authenticity. A woman approaches her wardrobe more emotionally; a man more analytically.
In your view, what does the ideally dressed man look like?
I adore the attributes of a suit. But do not picture it in the classic form. The only things that remain are the silhouette, the lapels and the collar; the fabric and the silhouette are innovative. The construction of the jacket is soft. Quite simply, when I come across a well-groomed man in a new generation of suit, it delights my eye. Just as it does when he swaps the shirt for a plain T-shirt in a luxurious fabric, and classic shoes for loafers or trainers. And if he complements it all with well-groomed hair, beard, manicure and fragrance, I do not hesitate to turn my head.
You have just launched the autumn/winter 2019 collection. What makes this collection special? Is there anything entirely new that has not been done before?
In the 2019 winter collection we have several new things. Exclusive is a coat made from duck-down fabric by the metre. It is a way of working with down that has no parallel in the Czech Republic. Also unique is the elegant bomber jacket, which functions as an alternative to a jacket.
What made you think of including a bomber in a formal collection?
It is a consequence of the loosening mores in society. The jacket is for a new generation that will want a new type of suit, different from their fathers’. The bomber paired with tapered trousers is a piece for connoisseurs who are not afraid of innovation even in formal fashion. It is lightweight and unlined. You can sit in it indoors in place of a jacket or jumper. It is for the customer who is already tired of wearing a jacket day in, day out, and who is seeking a sophisticated enrichment of his wardrobe.
How did you come by this exclusive duck-down fabric sold by the metre? In the Czech Republic, only Blažek features it in a collection.
Quality filling goes hand in hand with the quality of the outer fabric. We were looking for natural quality offering maximum comfort. Down itself is a difficult material — it often works its way through seams or the outer fabric. You arrive at a meeting covered in feathers. That is why various meshes are placed between the down and the outer fabric. But that makes the product much stiffer, which is not desirable. Everyone wants a very soft down jacket. By using duck down by the metre we eliminate the technical problems while preserving the softness and unmistakable warmth.
You design a formal collection with a Ceremony section and an informal collection. Which do you find easier to design, and which is your favourite?
The Formal and Informal collections are roughly the same size, and each has its own charm. With the formal collection I am constantly testing the limits of colour, pattern, combination and innovation in cut. I must not get too far ahead of the times, but nor can I fall behind. The informal collection is a laboratory for me, where trends show through more visibly. I can try out new silhouettes, patterns and colours, and whatever sells well we then develop further in the next season.
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