A truly well-cut woollen suit fits like a second skin. You feel splendid in it even during long and demanding meetings. It is light, breathable and does not crease. It looks sharp. Does that sound like a dream? Choosing a quality woollen suit is no rocket science, though. You just need to watch out for a few things.
1. A flattering cut and the right measurements
If a suit does not fit you, even the finest fabric cannot save it. Let the experts advise you on which cut of suit suits you best. A well-chosen cut follows the contours of the figure and is able to conceal small imperfections.
The key is the correct size. Ideally the suit should hug you loosely. It must not restrict movement, nor flap loosely around the body. It must have the right length of sleeves and trousers.
2. Natural materials come out on top
The choice of material matters not only for the look of the suit. The fabric determines how you will feel in it – whether you will perspire excessively or feel comfortable. The fabric also decides how long the suit will last. Give the choice of material, therefore, the attention it deserves.
If you are looking for a truly quality suit, forget synthetic materials. The very best properties are to be found only in natural fibres. Wool leads the way, even for summer suits. Manufacturers offer fabrics that combine wool with other natural fibres such as cotton, linen, cashmere and silk.
Why natural fibres? They are naturally breathable. The pleasant microclimate inside the suit prevents excessive sweating and the build-up of unpleasant odour. Arriving at a meeting with sweat-soaked underarms is hardly a dignified look.
3. How to recognise a quality woollen fabric
Wool is the very best choice you can make for a suit. Woollen fibres are hard-wearing and have shape memory, which means that any creases will smooth out by themselves in time. A woollen suit looks good, is dimensionally stable and conforms pleasantly to the shape of the body. In addition, it is naturally breathable.
The quality of a woollen fabric is determined by the fineness of the yarn from which it is woven. This is expressed by the marking “Xs”, which you will find on the label of suits from reputable producers. In place of X, substitute a number from 80 to 250. Most commonly you will come across 120s or 170s. The higher the “s” number, the finer the yarn used. Suits at 200s are therefore very fine, lightweight and well suited even to hot summer days.
The addition of other natural materials usually enhances the functional properties of the fabric. They can lighten it or increase its natural stretch.
Among the world’s leading producers of top-quality woollen fabrics are the houses of Loro Piana and Vitale Barberis Canonico, with which Blažek works closely.
4. The lining – hidden, but no less important
At first glance the lining of a suit remains hidden. For comfortable wear, however, it is just as important as the outer fabric. Once again natural materials are ideal – pleasant against the skin and sufficiently breathable.
5. Precision of workmanship and attention to detail
A quality woollen suit must be perfect in every respect. What matters are the finishing touches as well as the material of the buttons. Seams must be straight and the stitch length small – this ensures that the suit keeps its shape. On more luxurious suits the buttons are made from natural materials. On patterned fabrics the pattern is matched up seamlessly.
An investment in a quality woollen suit will repay itself many times over. It is an investment in yourself, in your image and in your personal comfort. Meticulously crafted woollen suits made from Loro Piana and Vitale Barberis Canonico fabrics are available in Blažek stores and at the Blažek tailor’s shop, where you can have a woollen suit made to measure.
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