Tailoring a truly high-quality suit is the pinnacle of the tailor's craft. It is the work of well-coordinated teams who respect the client, tradition, and also contemporary trends, and who can blend it all into a unique whole. The Mecca of tailoring is good old England. It is seconded by Italy and New York. Let us tempt you on a journey to ten renowned tailoring houses of the world.
Anyone who wants to see where the trend of gentlemen in suits began must visit London. In Westminster you will find Savile Row. This is where our pilgrimage around the world's finest tailoring houses can begin.
1. Anderson & Sheppard
A successful tailoring house that relies on first-class quality and absolute discretion. Their famous clients are never discussed. We can reveal, however, that Anderson & Sheppard is sought out by Americans who love the soft style of their jackets. Even Prince Charles has his suits made here. Although he has never publicly confirmed it and we won't hear it from the Andersons either, their style is so unmistakable that experts have no doubts.
The shop window of the Gieves & Hawkes tailoring house is impossible to overlook. By Savile Row standards it appears distinctly ostentatious. The care given to clients is above standard too, however, so they are happy to forgive the house its small extravagance.
Originally they focused on hunting and riding suits, which is still evident in their unmistakable style. Their offering mainly comprises close-fitting jackets with high shoulders and an emphasised waistline.
4. Kilgour, French & Stanbury
A tailoring house where tradition shakes hands with the modern age. The firm was one of the first in Savile Row to introduce air-conditioned rooms and online communication with clients. And it has not compromised in the slightest on quality or the traditional approach to its craft.
The firm was founded in 1806 and was at one time the largest tailoring house in the world. They tailored suits for Charles Dickens and Winston Churchill. Today their frequent clients include members of European nobility.
The Old Continent has England and its Savile Row. But a centre of tailoring excellence can also be found in New York.
6. Beckenstein Men´s Fabrics
In New York, do make time to visit number 257 on West 39th Street. Here you will find an inconspicuous shop. Don't judge by the first impression. You are inside a top-tier tailoring house. They make suits for ordinary clientele as well as for designers such as Ralph Lauren and Bijan. You can also see their suits in many Hollywood films.
The firm's history reaches back to the early 19th century and in America it is a household name. Its clients have included President Abraham Lincoln and Andy Warhol. Its suits feature the typical "sack" cut with natural shoulders, three buttons and a vent at the back.
Opposite reserved England stands Europe's second tailoring superpower. And that is relaxed, easy-going Italy, which often revels in ostentation.
Brioni suits are an expression of power and status. They are worn by Donald Trump, as well as Pierce Brosnan and Daniel Craig.
In 1968, Ciro Paone founded the Kiton brand in Naples, Italy. He had a vision of suits made from the finest fabrics, often supplied exclusively for the Kiton brand. He added refined details and stylish cuts. The result is suits that fit superbly.
In menswear too, China is increasingly asserting itself. Interesting tailoring houses that have left behind the world of mass Chinese production can be found in Hong Kong.
Worth mentioning is the Chinese phenomenon Ascot Chang. His suits are worn primarily by senior Chinese executives. Stores bearing his brand can nevertheless also be found in New York, Los Angeles and Manila.
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