Text: Jiří Král, Photo: Ilja Hubálek
According to a famous study by the shoemaker Allen Edmonds, 64 % of women judge a man by his shoes. From them they gauge his sense of dress, his eye for detail, his financial standing and, for more than half of the women surveyed, even his personality. Well-chosen shoes simply matter, and one cannot be guided by the figure on the receipt alone. So how can you be certain you are paying for genuine quality?
The construction of the shoe, or why to avoid glued ones
Shoes for two thousand crowns that you buy in an ordinary shop may seem like a smart investment. They look great and the price is pleasing, too. The problem comes only with time. Stitching begins to give way, the sole wears through, the poor-quality leather chafes and the colours fade. In normal wear such average oxfords or derbies will last you at most two years, and more often just one.
If you want truly quality footwear that will not fall apart within a year, you must invest in Goodyear-welted or Blake-stitched shoes. Goodyear-welted shoes are sturdier and very solid. A strip of leather (the welt) runs around the lower part, joining the upper to the sole. The foundation of Blake-stitched shoes is a flexible insole onto which the upper and the leather sole are stitched directly. They are lighter, more flexible and beautiful to look at — which is why we favour them in our boutiques.
Although such shoes are not cheap, the investment pays off. Not only do they last longer, but unlike glued shoes a worn-through sole can simply be replaced. A pair of oxfords or derbies like this will easily serve you for ten years and, with proper care, will remain just as beautiful.
Choose the style of shoe to suit the occasion
The most common styles of dress shoe are the derby and the oxford. Oxfords are more formal and are worn strictly with a suit. They are distinguished by their closed lacing, horizontally tied laces and a tongue stitched underneath. Derbies suit an ordinary working day just as well as leisure. They pair beautifully with a business suit, chinos or jeans.
Although the styles mentioned above are a safe bet, you may choose from a whole range of formal and informal shoe types. Among them are Chelsea boots, monk shoes, loafers, desert boots and many others.
The special decorative perforation of leather shoes is known as brogueing. The strips and punched holes form patterns that give the shoes an intriguing and relaxed character.
Originally the perforation served a practical purpose. The patterning allowed rainwater to drain away more easily, while the punched holes improved breathability. Today, however, both have a purely aesthetic role.
Brogue shoes are distinguished by the degree of ornamentation:
Whether or not you decide on brogues is purely a matter of personal preference. Remember, however, that the more pronounced the brogueing, the less formal the shoe.
If you have a choice between several lasts, always opt for shoes with a simple round toe. The square toe is a relic of the past. Although one still encounters such footwear in the wardrobes of older generations, it has all but disappeared from current collections.
Nor do we recommend the other extreme — shoes with a markedly pointed toe. Most of the time they appear needlessly extravagant, which is rarely desirable.
Examine the shoe up close; quality reveals itself in the details
How good a shoe really is can often be seen on close inspection. Look at the precision of the stitching and whether the individual parts fit together perfectly and firmly.
Inside, the shoe should be lined with a quality leather insole that helps absorb perspiration. Pay attention also to the lacing holes. Inside they should be fitted with metal eyelets that prevent deformation of the leather and premature wear of the laces during tying.
On the outside the leather should have a beautiful sheen — free of scratches, blemishes or any other imperfections. The heel counter, which cups the heel, should feel firm and hold its shape.
Still hesitating over your choice? In the Blažek boutiques our specialists will help you select the very best footwear and, what is more, advise you on how to pair it with the rest of your accessories and outfit. You can view the shoes from our latest collection in our e-shop.
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